stoked!
Lots of surfing last weekend, and I had some of my best rides ever!
We didn’t expect much in terms of swell on Saturday - we couldn’t see because the ocean was hidden by dense fog - but we took our boards out for a paddle in Lyall Bay anyway, because it never hurts to build some arm muscle… It was glassy with about 1/2 ft of swell, and we managed to catch some very small waves and had a lot of fun.
On Sunday, the south coast was flat as, but there was a brisk northerly blowing so we decided to try our luck at Titahi Bay. It was messy and windblown, but there was about a foot of swell. We had tons of fun, there were lots of surfers out there and I suddenly got everything right and had some of the best rides ever.
When you’re learning, your abilities often seem to increase with jumps rather than gradually. After performing at more or less the same level for a while, something in your mind ‘clicks’, everything falls into place and suddenly you’ve advanced miles. That’s what I experienced yesterday.
I suddenly got everything right, most importantly, I finally got my bottom turn right! By staying low on the board during takeoff, I was able to push the board through the turn to increase my speed, and before I knew it my board was speeding down the line, slotted in the upper half of the wave. By stepping backwards and forwards on the board I maintained proper trim and rode a few waves all the way to the beach.
I was so stoked I couldn’t stop smiling for an hour! Can’t wait to go out again, which will be today, after work, I hope…
